I’d spend as much time as possible in the Alps of Europe while living in the United Kingdom. The Alps are known throughout the world as the climbing Mecca;not only because of their natural, rough beauty, but also with their seemingly remote location, although the best climbing areas are often just above major towns or villages.
Access to these areas is usually not more than an hour’s trip via plane and typically does not cost much more than about $50 to 100$ to reach their location.
This essay describes just one of the many climbs I undertook throughout Europe and happened on a climb called ‘Mini-Moulin’ which is just above the picturesque village of Bourg d’Oisans in the French Alps.
Our day usually began early at 5 am with Jim, the course director, finishing the gear test. This was followed by a delicious, piping hot bacon, pancakes and coffee breakfast, expertly prepared by our host, Pauline in her beautiful cabin in the Chambre de Hôte where we stayed. The short drive to climb base went through in a blur of anticipation as we all chatted enthusiastically about the upcoming day’s climb.
It wasn’t long afterwards that we parked and ready to trek to the base of the icefall which was awesome in its magnificence. The ice cascaded over the edge of the cliff, rising several hundred feet above us, creating a huge herecle filled with an intricate design of’ mushrooms’ and diamond-like crystals. It was the most beautiful and scary thing I’ve ever seen at the same time, and I knew I wanted to climb it, or at least try to climb it.
First Pitch
The first pitch was relatively easy; if climbing a frozen waterfall can be described as ‘easy’ at any time! I commenced the climb and it wasn’t long before I settled into a steady rhythm; pick the spot, swing the ice ax, kick the opposite boot’s front point in to the ice, standup and repeat the process for the opposite side of the body.
Initially my breathing was rapid as the adrenaline rushed through my bloodstream, but once I settled down in the new rhythm, my breathing returned to normal and full concentration took over.
Looking back down to my belay, over 50ft below me, I quickly realized that I was not yet safe and that it would be very wise to insert ‘protection’ as soon as possible. I looked for some solid ice looking around the face; ice with the right consistency and texture is key to safe protective placement. I quickly selected the ice-screw fumbling around on my harness buckle, which was the perfect choice for the depth of ice.
Too short and it will rip out when put under extreme pressure, as would be the case in a fall; too long and it will hit the rock beneath the ice before being fully embedded; once again putting the integrity of the protection in question.
My upward Climb
Making a small indentation in the ice with the tip of my ice-ax I began to wind the ice-screw into the ice at a sloping angle of 30 °; the ideal angle to provide maximum efficiency. The ice-screw screwed in easily once the sharp teeth bit and I was able to pass through the ice-screw’s eye the cord that bound me to my belay.
Finally I was relatively secure and I could continue my upward climb towards the summit of the icefall.
I was sweating profusely despite the sub-zero temperatures and frigid winds raging through the valley below me. My hands were also damp inside the moist waterproof Gortex gloves; I didn’t know whether it was from the sweat or the water falling from the ice above. Sweat dropped down my neck’s nape and down my back’s top; it freely flowed down my forehead, often in my eyes, and they stung.
Small Christmas trees
The onward and steady pace always carried me higher and higher; I was awestruck by the beauty of my surroundings gazing over my right shoulder. My friends stood one hundred feet below me, all cranking their heads towards the sky, evaluating my progress; further below the tall pine trees stretching towards the sky, they were like small Christmas trees in the distance and far below, the first rays of the sun reached the valley floor and melted the ice on the frozen river.
I smiled to myself as I realized I had become one with nature.
Wind Dropped
Everything suddenly became quiet as the wind dropped. Nothing else could be heard except my rhythmic breathing and my ice-ax clunk as the heavily tightened edge bit in the ice.
I could see the metal bolt sticking out of the jagged rock not far above me; for me, it meant the start of my lead and the halfway point of the climb. I selected a’ quick-draw’ to reach the bolt, clipped it into the bolt, and passed through the carabineer through the rope. I indicated to my partner below to take me off belay as soon as I had tied myself off in the new belay position.
This is the signal that indicates that I am now safe and ready to bring my partner up to my high-point, almost 200ft off the ground.
Body Temperature
Hanging so high off the ground from my belay gave me a real sense of achievement. The mind focused on the immediate situation and at that moment nothing else in the world had any meaning; every bit of effort and attention was concentrated on my partner’s personal safety and health, who was about to start climbing the same path. It wasn’t long before he joined me at the belay, or so it seemed, and he continued to climb to the top.
A cold shiver, as my body temperature returned to normal, brought me back to the realization that I would have a long wait in this position before he would reach the top.
At times like this, I still look back and ask myself; why did it take me 32 years to discover this magnificent frozen world? I don’t know the answer, and I’m probably never going to know it, but what I do know is that I want to experience it as long as my old body allows me.
Life Experience
This is a sporting activity that I can recommend to all. You do not have to be an adrenalin junkie or any other kind of freak to enjoy ice climbing; you just need to know that you want to experience life to the full and this is one way to do that.
Paul logan is an amateur climber, professional businessman and entrepreneur living in Southern California. He loved to do ice climbing Michigan , as well as throughout Europe, Southern Africa, and the Sierra Nevada mountains of California.